Watering is important for grass seed and sod. Daily watering for the first two weeks is important to keep the soil and seeds moist to start germination for seeds, and for sod the roots need to grow into the soil and need moist soft soil to grow into and take in water to keep from drying out.
First two weeks water daily, unless more than a (1/2) half inch of rainfall has or is going to happen, these first two weeks the grass seed needs to be kept moist to start germination.
After two weeks the 3rd and 4th weeks you can water every other day, depending on the temperature and amount of sun the lawn gets during the day.
The 5th and 6th weeks watering every three to four days is fine as long as the grass doesn't show signs of drying out or signs of over watering.
After six weeks watering as needed to keep the grass from drying out is fine.
Now some people say new grass is fully established after two years from the time of planting. I think at least one year or keeping the new grass growing through one summer season, and getting it to recover in the fall as the grass being established. But the soil quality and fertilizing can vary new grass getting established. This leads me to say, during a “dry spell”, small “short” drought, or anytime seven days or more of less than (1/2) half an inch of rainfall, water your lawn at least one day, more than (1/2) half an inch of water, especially if you have a completely new lawn or a lawn that you are trying to fill a lot of it in for a thicker look. So, watering your lawn is needed even if it is established.
Watering grass seed depends on how often you get rain that is over a 1/2 inch of rainfall, how well your soil holds moisture after it rains and how much sunlight the lawn gets during the day (shaded areas may not need to be watered as much as full sun areas). Soil quality (nutrient and beneficial bacteria to help establish new grass seed’s roots).
During each watering a ½ inch of water is normal, you can always adjust watering to fit the needs of your lawn. Depending on the time of year you are seeding or sodding watering amounts may vary, adjust as needed for your yard. Grass seed and sod take months to be established and well rooted, high heat, drought and frost can stress it out months after planted and growing.
Now sod needs a lot of water, I really mean it, sod needs a lot of water. It seems crazy at first to hear how much water sod needs but it is true, unless the sod is in full shade. If you see the sod grass blades look dry, it needs more water. On the flip side if water is pooling on top of the sod around the blades of grass or the grass blades at the base are starting to yellow, that’s a sign of too much water. The thin layer of soil with the sod, (if the sod comes from a sod farm), are all that is left of the root system that needs to stay wet enough to not dry out and soft enough to get the roots to grow down into the soil you just rolled the sod on to.
Feeding or fertilizing new lawns or sod using starter fertilizer at the time of planting lasts six weeks. After six weeks a low dosage of regular fertilizer can be used or I recommend another dosage of starter fertilizer, easy to apply and gentle on the new grass and roots. (Starter fertilizer is always good to use on your lawn, if you’re unsure of what to use or anytime seed or sod has been put down). Depending on fertilizer sources you can have different options to choose from or even mail order (if your state allows mail order deliveries of fertilizers). Strong fertilizers can burn and kill off new growing grass. Weed and feed fertilizers will prevent grass seeds from sprouting, but now newer options to have a starter fertilizer with a weed preventer, that prevents new weeds and discolors current growing weeds, which slowing dry and die later. Those are the results I have seen with these new starter fertilizers with weed preventer.
Mowing, can be done after the 4th week, if the grass is tall enough. Set your mowing height 4 inches or higher, avoid hard turns that could rip or tear the new grass, make your turns wide and gentle and bag the clippings so no clumps are sitting on top of the grass, for the first two mowings. On the third mowing you can mulch the clippings if you would like, 3 inch minimum for mowing height and still be gentle with turning, and for the rest of the mowing season you can either mulch the clippings or bag them. Avoid letting the lawn getting too tall and cutting a lot of the grass blade off in one mowing, this can burn new grass. Don’t let clippings make a thick or clumping layer on top of the lawn, the new grass is weak and can’t always be able to push through or stand up against a thick layer of clippings or clumps.
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